Sémillon, which provides much of the richness in Bordeaux Sauternes, works the same magic here. The wine is honeyed, certainly, but its fine acidity and orange marmalade crispness to form a contrast. Drink the wine now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.