Heron Hill 2019 Eclipse Red (Finger Lakes)

This Merlot-led Bordeaux blend offers raisiny black and red currant fruit, tobacco leaf, an herbal edge and plenty of cola-like oak. The latter feels a little musty, and the fruit is somewhat tired for such a relatively young wine. Elevated acidity on the palate adds a tartness to the currant fruit, which is juicy and appealing. But the tannins—chalky, spicy and austere—dominate. Christina Pickard

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