Hillinger 2011 Hill 1 Red (Burgenland)

Dense blackberry fruit and even a hint of new leather can be coaxed from the glass with the first swirl. A toned and muscular yet still graceful body gives equal measures of fruit and supporting oak. The tannins are fine and there is statuesque poise of a very well-cut wine, like an Italian-tailored suit, elegant yet masculine. This drinks well already but will be even better in two to three years' time; drink through 2018. Anne Krebiehl MW

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