Hinman 2001 Pinot Gris (Oregon)

The sweet, pleasant nose has plenty of citrus and tropical fruit. One whiff gets you excited. But the palate is nonexpressive, offering just the basics in terms of apples and spice. The finish, meanwhile, turns round and heavy, with no acid backbone to speak of. In the end you wind up wondering what happened to the promise of the bouquet. —M.S. Michael Schachner

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