Hourglass 2009 Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

This is a big, tannic, midnight black Cabernet, rude in youth and barely drinkable. The tannins are powerful enough to lock down the palate. The grapes, grown in Calistoga, are very ripe in blackberries, currants and dark chocolate, but those tannins are stubbornly astringent. Almost old-fashioned in toughness despite very high alcohol, it's a curiosity that seems likely to develop in the cellar, but with so little evidence of past vintages, all bets are off.

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    750 ml
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