Iron Horse 2011 Brut X Sparkling (Green Valley)

X is for extra dry, and this is, made from 74% Pinot Noir, the remainder Chardonnay. It jumps out of the glass in an explosion of nutty, salty lemon peel, dry as a bone and rewarding in its full embrace of minerality. This sparkler begs for oysters and a skiff out to sea. Virginie Boone

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