J. Bookwalter 2002 Chapter One Meritage (Columbia Valley (WA))

The winery's first Meritage has a hefty bottle but a rather dull, black and white label. It's layered and complex, quite young with streaks of pencil lead, licorice and charcoal around dense black fruits and sweet tannins. The wine shows a very strong spine on which the tart fruit hangs; that tartness characterizes optimal Washington ripeness. Full and complete, it hints appropriately at leaf and spice nuances. Paul Gregutt

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