In contrast to the 1990 vintage, this tastes old. But it has a sturdy structure and character that bring it closer to Champagne. It is certainly a wine for lovers of old Champagne, but as it opens in the glass all the disparate elements come together.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.