Cracked pepper and sagebrush aromas give a sense of importance to the more hedonistic scents of buttered blueberries on this top-end bottling from the longtime producer. Black cherries and elderberries arise on the otherwise minty palate, and the tannins prove quite gripping. They will unwind and be best 2018–2022.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.