This celebration of legendary Jerry Lohr's 80th birthday is a winner on all fronts. A zesty, uplifting nose of blackberry, cola, licorice, leather and clay leads into a cohesively woven palate of soy, shiitake dust, roast beef and dark chocolate. The acidity is well-measured, the tannins are chalky and grippy and it's powerful without being flashy.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.