A fine old-style wine, with solid dusty tannins balancing big, black, concentrated fruit. Dry tannins and dried fruits give a sense of richness and dark power. This powerful wine has been aged six years before release, but it could benefit from another four or five in the cellar. Best Buy. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.