The Tinta Caiada is the local name for Bastardo, which some believe to be identical to the Trousseau of eastern France. Putting the name aside, the wine is sweet but ele-gant, with flavors of new wood underlining the black fruit rather than dominating it. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.