The River Block in Rochioli's vineyard shouldn't produce great wines, because the soils are sandy and deep due to their proximity to the river, which repeatedly floods over them in the rainy season. But meticulous farming resolves that issue, as evidenced by many years of River Block Pinot Noirs, including those from Williams Selyem. Now Rochioli makes Chardonnay from the block, and what a fine wine it is. Dry, crisp and minerally, it has a Chablis-like stoniness, yet is rich in apples, pears and sweet oak. Great now, and will develop bottle complexity over the next 4–6 years.