This blanc de blancs certainly shows its dryness, but with the wonderful maturity that it is just beginning to develop, it also has plenty of richness. Almonds are emerging to balance the white, almost tropical, fruits, calming the extreme crispness of the acidity. A great wine, which should develop beautifully over the next 10–15 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.