With a majority of Chardonnay in the blend, this has turned into a wonderfully expressive wine. It is more open than the great 1996, more generous, giving some mature toast and nut flavors, but still retaining ripe apricots and mulberry. In the Jacquesson style, this is very dry, but its richness keeps it well in balance.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.