With just the right amount of bottle aging, this almost bone-dry Champagne is tight, steely while also hinting at the beginnings of toastiness. It is also full of crisp apple, lemon and pink grapefruit fruitiness, well integrated into the taut texture. Drink now for freshness, age for even more toastiness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.