This is still very tightly coiled: the nose says little and the palate holds on tight to its beautifully pure blueberry fruit. There is lip-smacking freshness and a very finely woven tannin structure but this impressive wine does need time to come into itself and relax its fruit. There is something profound and stony about this, something mysterious, brooding and wild. Cellar this and then rejoice. Drink 2020–2035.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.