Across the lineup, Januik's Cabernets are steely, sharp-edged and cellar-worthy. Which makes this Ciel du Cheval bottling, which is usually that way to begin, perhaps the most archetypical of them all. Think black cherry with nerves of steel, set on a foundation of pure rock. Stick it in the cellar for another decade or more—if you can keep your hands off it.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.