This revival of a medieval practice of heating the grapes before fermentation giving an almost black color has produced a wine that has dried fruit aromas, intense and chewy black fruits on the palate and layer upon layer of tannins interspersing the fruit. Obviously a wine of this power needs many years—10 and more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.