The fruit from 40-year-old vines is reticent about showing its character at this young stage. However, in two to three years, the rich and concentrated citrus flavors and steely structure will take over and reveal a dense wine that is aromatic as well as serious. Drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.