From one of Champagne's less ageworthy vintages, this is already deliciously drinkable. It has fine acidity that cuts through the mineral texture, shaping the rounded fruitiness. It's dry and crisp at the end. Drink now and over the next 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.