Jim Barry 2019 Assyrtiko (Clare Valley)

The first planting of this native Greek variety in Australia (in 2012), this is only the fourth vintage to be released. It's still finding its way style-wise. This vintage is less ripe and fleshy than previous years and has a leaner, more austere, Riesling-like profile. There's a petrol and paraffin character upfront. Once it opens more, lemon balm, green tea, honeysuckle and a saline note peak through the cracks. The palate is refreshing, with elevated, if a touch shrill, acidity and a slightly creamy texture. There's little fruit or flavor in general to be found here but it may gain complexity with more time in the bottle. Christina Pickard