There's good funk and bad funk; this is right on the border. Scents of earth and compost, gamy meat and bitter greens run amok on the palate, almost concealing the fruit. The interplay of flavors and the overall complexity and length mark this as a Spofford Station Syrah, but just as it should be knitting together, it falls apart, leaving a trail of black olives in its wake.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.