JM Cellars 2010 Syrah (Columbia Valley (WA))

All the JM Cellars Syrahs are intriguing from the first sniff, here a mix of root beer, cola and brown spices, wrapped around plum cake. The wine is nicely balanced with natural acidity, and the fruit—mostly Stillwater Creek with some Klipsun, as well—is clean and fresh, though somewhat lighter than usual. Paul Gregutt

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