Like many of the J.J. Prum wines when young, this one was difficult to taste because of the elevated sulfur levels. Yet in time, this rating may look stingy, as they tend to evolve beautifully in the bottle. For now, there's some pineapple and citrus showing, but the bulk of the score stems from the wine's rich, honeyed texture that's perfectly enlivened by just a trace of spritz. Try in 2010 or beyond. Cellar Selection. —J.C.