Johann Donabaum 2018 Ried Setzberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

A glint of ripest Mirabelle melds with orange zest on the nose, verging almost into compote. The palate is concentrated and bold, hinging upon a forceful vein of central freshness that is pithy and textural. Citrus pith, concentration and freshness all make the mouth water with this energetic, bold wine. Drink 2025–2045. Anne Krebiehl MW

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