When Silvia Heinrich, Johann Heinrich's daughter (whose name is on this bottle) pushes the alcohol up to 14%, she somehow loses the intense varietal character. What we find instead is a powerful wine, with layers of wood, big spice and pepper and rounded black fruits, but one with no sense of place.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.