From old vines, this is a powerful wine that is perfumed, rich and dense. It celebrates the importance of Castelão in the history of Setúbal winemaking in a way that brings out its ripe juiciness. Foot trodden in open fermenters, it has a full, concentrated character. Drink from 2016.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.