If Portugal's third fortified wine (after Port and Madeira) can taste like this, it should be better known. Dark gold color, the wine has burnt, Maderized aromas. This is a wonderful old wine, with the youngest wine in the blend being 18 years old. Tastes of burnt old wood and old gold fruits complete a sensous experience. Sensibly, the wine also comes in half bottles. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.