Despite its high alcohol, this wine manages to preserve its balance. That's because the Grüner acidity creeps through the weight. With his top wine, Ehmoser goes for a tropical fruit profile here, with mangos on top of vanilla and spice. There's structure too, which suggests this powerful wine could age for 2–3 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.