This is a beautifully shaped wine that rises from a quiet opening. Muted and slightly closed up at this stage, it opens opulently but with balanced acidity and crispness, as well as richness and restrained power.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.