If, at first sip, this seems delicate, that's an illusion. Reticent would be a better word, for this is a wine that is still youthful, with the toast and crisp acidity acting as a framework to the rich green and white fruits that are developing. Keep for 4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.