Judith Beck 2011 Pannobile Red (Burgenland)

Brooding flavors of dark cherry and pure cocoa initially play on the palate, but it slowly opens up to reveal a deceptive lightness. The body is sleek yet concentrated, with super-soft tannins. With haunting edges of cherries preserved in kirsch and bitter chocolate, this is an intriguing, elegant wine that's lovely now but will also age gracefully through 2019. Anne Krebiehl MW

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