The Alte Reben (old vines) owned by Jurtschitsch Sonnhof on Heiligenstein give an impressively concentrated, very mineral wine. Bitter Seville orange flavors give the acidity and the juicy character. It is still very young—give it at least three years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.