Big, bold and soft, this is way too heavy. Sure, the Grüner spice is all there, but it is at the expense of a fresh, racy character. The toast character doesn't quite work either.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.