A lot of stems and whole clusters go into the winemaking, adding spice and a chewy earthiness. The nose is scented with camphor, green tea and smoked ham. This is no fruit bomb, rather it's a wine that gathers itself in the midpalate and shows its real strength in the back half, as its layers of earth, soy, tomato leaf and rhubarb mix and mingle. Long, earthy and complex, this is moving closer and closer to a Cayuse style. It finishes with just a little bit of heat.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.