Kalleske 2020 Clarry's G-S-M (Barossa Valley)

From one of Barossa's longstanding and highly reputed wineries, Clarry's is a bold yet layered GSM. A lucid, winter warming nose of brambly raspberry and currant fruit, cherry, licorice, cracked pepper and very dark chocolate is etched in charred, dusty vanillin oak. The oak is increasingly present on the palate, too, as it warms in the glass. Chiseled, chalky tannins cinch plump fruit and savory spice. The finish is sappy and astringent. Another year or two in the bottle (from 2024) might do this good. Christina Pickard