Kana 2004 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red (Red Mountain)

In this Bordeaux blend are some of the sought-after details from this exceptional vineyard—mineral, straw and herb—underlaying the spicy tart fruit that ranges from strawberry through plum. Still, for a wine that hits 15.3% alcohol, it seems to lack concentration and staying power, and the finish has an unappealing plastic ring to it. Paul Gregutt

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