90pointsKathryn Kennedy 2004 Twenty-Seven Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

Just-cracked, yeasty sourdough bread and dried lemon-skin aromas float off of this bottle-aged sparkler from an esteemed, longtime producer. Her winemaker son named this wine in honor of her birth year. An oxidative warmth gives bready depth to the palate, which shows lots of toast and lemon marmalade flavors. Matt Kettmann

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