No grape seems too obscure for Kenneth Volk, not even the Portuguese varietal Verdelho. Only 92 acres are planted in all of California, including the ones Volk himself planted in Paso Robles in 1994. Aromas of red apple and pear slowly draw you in, not spilling all the goods on the nose. The flavors are relatively slight on the tongue, with nectarine, honeyed nuts and baked apple. The tight acidity makes it a great pairing for Thai and Vietnamese dishes.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.