Kenwood 1997 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County)

From one of the largest and most highly touted vintages in a great decade, this is large and fairly fat. The cassis, fruitcake and menthol nose and sweet blackberry and chocolate palate aim to please…and do just that. It feels a bit low in acidity, making it lush and forward, displaying a bit of heat and a looser structure. Still, this pleasure package is young, and the long, dark finish shows even, well-dispersed tannins. Another winner in a streak, if maybe less of a keeper. Drink now–2009, again probably sooner rather than later.