Kenwood 1998 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County)

So what's this famous, hands-on Cabernet like at four years? In a word, it suffers from its vintage. Although you root for it, it can't overcome a thinness that verges on herbs and veggies. Elaborate oak doesn't help. Makes you realize that every year is not a vintage year in California. —S.H.

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