Kenwood 1998 Massara Merlot (Sonoma Valley)

. Unfortunately, 1998 was not 1997, when this bottling was very good. This vintage is less ripe, and so the wine has some green aromas and flavors, in addition to blackberry. That makes the tannins stick out more. There's nothing to contain them, but if you pair it with the right, rich foods, it will be just fine. —S.H.

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