Kestrel remains one of the most enigmatic Washington wineries; brilliant at times, disappointing at others, possessed of excellent old-vine fruit and yet plagued with inconsistency. This Co-ferment Syrah was excellent in 2002 and even better in 2003, but falls a bit short in 2004. It's got the purple-black color but not the density to match; the fruit flavors are chewy and tart, and the wine has an acidic edge that leaves an impression of unripeness.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.