Among Kiona's strengths, the dessert wines are right at the top. This wine—comparable in many ways to the Single Berry Select from Eroica (which costs more than twice as much)—features Chenin Blanc rather than Riesling, and why not? It's a seductive, delicious bottle that expresses the condensed essence of the grape. Even at 274 g/L of residual sugar, it does not translate to a cloying or super-sweet wine; rather it is buoyed by supporting acidity, while filling the mouth with candied fruits, flowers, and buttery pastry notes.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.