Bottled in 2008, this extraordinary wine is still concentrated. It is also smooth, a velvet texture of richness bordering on opulence. The flavor of wood is there, but more important are the old-time fudge and toffee flavors, rounded with sweet sultanas and edged with acidity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.