Kopke has a treasure house of old Colheita tawnys, and this rich, wood-spiced wine is a classic example. The vanilla and caramel from long wood aging are balanced superbly with acidity and dried fruits. It is nowhere near too concentrated, but it is certainly rich, its flavors long-lasting and intense.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.