Kumkani means “king” in Xhosa, and this has a rather royal bearing, displaying good depth of fruit and the unique earthiness particular to certain South African reds. The fruit positively shines on the dry, supple palate, picking up earth, game and herb notes. A structured wine, it's built to last, with solid tannins on the lengthy close. Drink from 2004 to 2006 and beyond. Best Buy. —M.M.