This grower-turned-vintner pulls out all the stops. This is as good as the appellation gets. Displays classic Cabernet notes of cassis and olives, framed in gorgeously smoked oak. Dry, luscious tannins, creamy acids. If there's a criticism, it's a little too obvious. Think finesse. Napa has it. So far, Sonoma Valley, even at this level, doesn't.