This is a cool cru, which shows even in this great year with its structure, austerity and steely character. It makes it old-style Chablis, with its green fruits and lively, poised freshness.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.